Angela Lindvall in Jil Sander, photographed by David Sims, 1998.
Sander began her career as a fashion journalist, but moved into fashion design. In 1968 she opened a boutique in Hamburg and five years later was showing on the catwalk. Sander perceived a need for understated clothes with a sense of quiet self-confidence, but which would provide the wearer with the ultimate in fit, quality and modernity. It was a prophetic vision: today, her clothes have become the byword for an ultra-modern, androgynous sensuality that is as uncompromisingly technical as it is beautiful. Her simplicity must not, however, be confused with classicism. As Sander told Vogue, ‘A classic is an excuse, because one is too lazy to contrast the spirit of the time.’ Brutal purity defines her work. She rejects the clichés of femininity, its ruffles and furbelows, for the refinements found in the architecture of men’s suits. This approach throws emphasis away from detail and onto the material, as can be seen here with a pair of trousers, the most striking aspect of which is texture.
—Phaidon Editors, 1998