Shalom Harlow and Linda Evangelista in Eric Bergère, photographed by Mario Testino for Visionaire, 1997.
These spare wrap dresses represent the self-assured work of Eric Bergère. Briefly apprenticed to Thierry Mugler, he arrived at Hermès aged just seventeen. It was Bergère who gave modernity to Hermès’ luxury, using the then passé snaffle and H logo to add wit. In doing so, he famously created a camp, mink jogging suit. Bergère blends European humour and respect for tradition with the American sportswear sensibility. He has said, ‘I like the work of Americans, like Anne Klein … very simple clothes, very elegant,’ and he keeps detail to a minimum, using a thin tie belt or a tiny bow on a knitted camisole top. His first collection under the Bergère label was tightly edited: twelve pieces of knitwear in three colours and one jacket in three different lengths. ‘I want the jackets to be like cardigans, I try to make everything lighter—the finishings, the linings, the foundations—but they must still have a definite shoulder.’
—Phaidon Editors, 1998