Tina Chow in a 1983 black silk crêpe evening gown, with Lesage trompe l’oeil jewellery embroidery, by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel.
'It is impossible,' [Coco] Chanel said, 'to wear lots of real jewels unless there are women who wear lots of fake ones.' Her penchant for mixing the authentic and the false, in particular her layering of real and fake jewellery, was recreated with a sense of her original panache in the first Lagerfeld collection for Chanel in 1983. Marvelous embroidered decorations and accessories for the couture have been created by the House of Lesage from the 1920s to the present, thus from the era of Coco Chanel to the era of Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. Lots of faux jewellery, mingled with the real—as worn by Tina Chow—completes the fashion concept that both Chanel and Lagerfeld embraced. Both appreciate the irony of fashion when the real and the artificial, the actual and imagined, and the rich and poor are combined.
—Richard Martin and Harold Koda, 1992
Photo by the House of Chanel.